Do you have a standard fixed or aftermarket adjustable FPR ? I'm just wondering if Ryan mapped it with increased fuel pressure to wring a bit more out of standard injectors (I know he does this) and it has subsequently been adjusted down to 'standard'.

I still think that the reduced power is not down to fuelling directly as 12.5 / 13:1 should produce more power than 11:1. If your timing is showing as much more retarded than 'default map' then this could be the issue. It does make me wonder if the map has been 'corrupted' and / or someone elses map loaded in it's place.

If the MAP is as per original & fuel pressure is ok, then it's either an injector problem or a 'sensor' problem which is making the ECU alter fueling down and possibly pulling timing.

The only injector issue I can thing of is low voltage feed to them. It would be worth checking the voltage at the common terminal of the ballast pack (usually near the battery area). I doubt it would just be one injector or you would certainly have fried that cylinder by now.

Sensors that affect mixture (and maybe timing) off the top of my head:
Intake air x 2
MAP sensor if you have rev3 based ECU - AFM and possibly 'turbo pressure' if a rev 1/2
coolant temperature (this would usually only richen I suspect)

Also worth checking cam timing and ignition timing. From memory, altering ign timing does affect the AFR reading although I doubt by this much or equally over the range.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Just seen last post. As a thought, if you're running a rev3 ECU, how is it wired in ? If correct care hasn't been taken over how the Earths are done to sensors, MAP in particular, you can get an offest added.

The ECU has a reference 0V E2 to the critical sensors. This is earthed at the ECU and should not have any high current devices attached. It should just go to MAP, TPS and the 3 temperature sensors (intake airbox, intake manifold, coolant)
E01 and E02 are the high current Earth returns for injectors etc. These should be wired individually back to engine earth (usually under manifold).
E1 is the ECU Earth feed and should again be wired direct to intake manifold.

It is critical that these are wired as above, and especially no link from E2 to any 'ground' other than the sensors mentioned. Any current flowing along this wire will produce a voltage drop which will be added to sensor outputs.

You can cross check the MAP sensor reading through the commander and compare to an accurate boost gauge, but there's no saying it's not correct now and wrong at the time of mapping.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Thanks for your help and input Steve, again i appreciate it along with everyone elses input on this PITA!
i do have a FP pin in the diagnostic port, i will also have a look at taking some readings on various sensors

i shall report back!

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

So....

Turbo pressure sensor is being supplied with correct voltage.
Fuel injector Resistor pack is in spec, st165 pack still being used.


Had a thought, how about I turn the boost down to around 1.1/1.2 Bar
And run the JDM st205 Toyota ecu?
I can then see if I'm hitting rich AFR's?
If I am we know its a PFC or map issue if I'm not mega rich I'm looking else where still?
I will need to address the CC issue other wise I will be in limp mode and probably turn the fuel pressure down a touch?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

worth a try but the stock ecu will run rich as it is it what thay like to do

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If it does it will rule out injectors, sensors and fuel system on the whole

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Good Idear . as in confirming if problem is in the ecu or not.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

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--

Darryl

Had an email back from Ryan...

******************************************
I am unsure what has happened but something has effected the injector opening globally either voltage at injectors or fuel flow.

I would suggest increasing the global injector values under settings to achieve the Afr back in the 11.6 range. This will also resolve the idle and cruise issue. Future more it will be constantly saved this way.

********************************************

I'm guessing this can this be found via the hand controller-> Settings->Injector->Injector Data?
Mine are already set at

#1 95%. +0.00ms
#2 96% +0.00ms
#3 96.5% +0.00ms
#4 95% +0.00ms

Do I need to increase the percentage or the value measured in ms, presumably time?


Tia

Steve

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Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

I think that's a really *expletive deleted* idea. Something has changed in the hardware, let's just fiddle the software to make it all better. What could possibly go wrong


The map is close enough (by my reckoning at least) that it really shouldn't need 20% more fuel added to make it work unless you've fitted 440cc injectors and completely forgotten about it. Saying that Itchy-san turned in some good numbers. Has he been alone with your car at any time

Assuming the map hasn't been corrupted and there isn't a doolally sensor creating bad corrections there is probably a fuel injection problem. It might be pump or injectors or anything in the wiring
NB I say probably because it's not impossible that there was a problem when it was mapped which has now gone away - stuck FPR, blocked return line etc etc

However, that said I don't honestly know what else you can do. You're missing essential data that would help diagnose the problem. All you needed was rail pressure when it was mapped

So I would correct the map and then make damn sure I was keeping a very close eye on the AFR to see if it is still drifting. Given the situation I'd try and get some logging on rail pressure to try and rule out a fuel pump going down under load. I'd also be trying my best to get some general logging done to try and rule out Duff sensors

Mmmmmmmm, Duff, aaarghhhhhh

OK, I have purchased a Datalogit so should be able to do some logging very soon!
I plan on leaving the fuel pressure gauge in situ for now.

Had another reply from Ryan saying # 1 & 2 put up to 102 and # 3 & 4 103.
I noticed the standard map comes set to 100%?
In his defence he is trying to help via email, if I said I wanted him to sort it via a remap I'm sure he would be all to happy to charge for a refresh? That or do as mentioned above?


I also recall replacing the efi water temp sensor a year ago as the original was starting to break up, another possible cause?

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Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

You need to ascertain the cause of the issue before fudging the fuelling. If this is a buggered/corrupt map or duff sensor then your timing could be way off as well.

I refer to the posts below - there is something else going on as well.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

Just as a thought for something to check.

The replaced water temp sensor.... could this have been part buggered during original mapping? I would expect that Ryan would have picked up that water temp was out of whack but ....

1) O2 feedback was switched off by Ryan as he could't get it to run properly with it on. (this is dissabled during cold start conditiosn by ECU)
2) Wrong EFI signal would have meant more fuel was being poured in than typically it should have been.
3) IIRC it also adjusts timing to assist warm up from cold start.

Have you got your old sensor to test or is it really screwed?

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

I will take a look at the map that the car is running on and compare it to a copy as close to the mapping date as i have.
I do still have the old EFI sensor and im sure it will be fine, the plastic section is starting to come away from the metal section.

I also recall i had a water temp correction setting altered as i run a TRD Thermostat meaning the water temperature doesn't always get upto 80', The 80'c setting was put into the 50'c box meaning it "comes off choke" sooner and doesn't run rich when water temps are below 80'c in the winter..

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Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Was the trd stat in during original mapping and then the map adjusted afterwards? If so who by? Ryan or a tinkerer?

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

I don't think the stat was in for mapping and Ryan adjusted the water temp correction.

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk