Your wish is my command.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

How do you mean? Is the 3sgte known to have this issue?

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Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

No it's not a known problem with the engine but it's sadly not the first mapping "workaround" that has come back to bite

Can you work out when the idle stalling started and does it coincide with anything? The worry would be the ecumenical has had a moment and reverted to the pre programmed stock jdm map

The stalling started a few years back lol
the car is only used 6 months of the year and covered only 2K miles last year so the odd stalling didn't matter too much...

Its possible the car has run like this for several years whats even more amazing though is i have done several track days!

i guess its possible the map has defaulted, anyone got a stock map i can compare?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Another Update, The car idles with 40Psi of fuel pressure, 50 with the vac line dissed.
On boost i'm seeing 60psi, maybe a couple more, i dod see a quick fluctuation but it settles again.

Fuel pump voltage is around 13.5v at idle and normal driving, this does drop to just below 13v when revved hard!
this doesn't appear to make any difference to fuel pressure?

Changed the Fuel Filter and this made no difference to any of the above.

When i add fuel, the inj duty cycle does go up as expected i guess...

Running out of ideas and a trip to Ryan i think is on the cards?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

your pushing the 540cc injectors to much get some 650cc or 800cc

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BRD Page

http://www.brooks-brd.co.uk/

https://www.facebook.com/Brooks.Racing.Dev

Louis I read that on the other threads you keep mentioning it on lol
The Inj size has nothing to do with my issue here as I can get more fuel, bucket loads more fuel if I extend the Inj time..
Duty cycle is at 88%, when in the 11's, if revved very hard of which I *never* do, you yourself commented on this when watching videos of me on track..
I'm aware of the myths of injectors overheating, locking up etc but as previously mentioned I'm yet to see this or speak to anyone that has first hand experience of it, I'm happy with my choice of injector for now.

Question, does the alternator stop charging when in WOT?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

I know pete had to lag his aultintor as when it got hot he lost charge that 1 of the resons it has a air dukt on it

_________________
BRD Page

http://www.brooks-brd.co.uk/

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Can you ask Ryan for a copy of your map to check against what is on the ecu? Mild possibility the ecu has reset it self.

_________________
JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

I can indeed but the map I posted on here is what should be on the ecu.
Saying that I can't say 100% that is the map in it right now.
I will get it checked before seeing Ryan.

JP- Have you got a base map I can compare it to?
That way I can check the settings I can see via the hand controller that come defaulted as being enabled, such as O2 F/B control, mine is switched off.

Tia

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

No.

_________________
If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Must be down to increased Current decreased Voltage?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

Sorry Steve,

I missed you posting your map

It is most definitely not the PFC basemap - that has a boatload of timing which yours doesn't and does have O2 FB which yours doesn't

Here's a version of it for reference - there are various versions but this is representative enough

https://www.dropbox.com/s/w6nyn03qjrh10 ... Dat?v=0mcn

I don't see anything particularly wrong with your map - it's pouring in more fuel than my 205 map did
There's also no INJ Vs TPS correction

I think the problem lies elsewhere

Thanks matey...have now drawn a bit of a blank on it all...That phone call to Ryan is nearing lol
Map sensor out of spec?

_________________
Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk

I'll be blunt in my personal opinion

I don't think it will help. Your map is close enough and what I've seen of Ryan's diagnostic skills is non existent
This may be unfair but I've yet to see/hear of an attempt to diagnose a mystery but there's been a few workarounds all of which have come back to roost in unfortunate places. But I must stress I've never known anybody approach him and my impressions are based solely on what's happened during one hour wonder map sessions. A diagnostic session may reveal a wealth of hidden talents

There are also sadly some basics which should have been recorded during the mapping that weren't (unless you received special treatment) - fuel rail pressures, sensor deviations from calibrated values etc etc. Without such figures you'll never know what has happened

My suggestions broadly agree with JP. Get some logging done and ensure that final ink numbers agree with those from the map. Also check that sensors are reporting reasonable figures
Try to check the static timing with a gun - switch off idle ignition control and you should get the map numbers
Check the boost sensor with a footpump and gauge and a volt meter. Verify this matches the sensor reading from the ecu
Also I forget if you have bridged the fp terminals in the diagnostic connector (if you even have one in a 165). If not try that
Check the injector resister pack with a meter
Check fuel pressure vs map sensor reported pressure - with the engine not running but using an air pump to simulate boost. This will take some replumbing on the vac side
Lastly you really need to pull the map. Your symptoms smack of a bad injector size calibration. When I threw my map onto NoGT4s car it ran mid fifteen at idle until I swapped the map from 800 to 540