Evening all.

Having just purchased Tein lowering springs, KYB front shocks, and TRD top mounts, I am about to get stuck in and replace the old stock items. This will be the first time i've meddled with the suspension on the four, having been lucky for the last 7 years of ownership!

Whilst getting stuck in with the release oil to all the relevant joints etc. in preparation for the real work, I noticed the OSF is showing classic Fig 8/number 1 arm movement. Shiiiiit.

I'm not massively keen to crack out the wallet again for £300-per-side this month, so I am thinking of just doing the springs/shocks/mounts as planned. This should enable me to see more clearly what expensive bits are needing done in a month or two.

Is this logical... or is it a lot more work to do the work in isolation?

Also, how much of a *bleep* job is the camber arm/fig 8 for doing on the driveway with (willing but) amateur expertise and equipment?

Thanks for reading another SS related post!

The only duplication of effort is the 3 bolts / nut at the bottom of the hub, and the 1 nut on the fig 8.

Not a difficult job to do, but a bit fidly to get ball joint splitters on to some joints. Can require minor modification to the tool with an angle grinder. Also a pain to get spring compressors on the front springs as they are so short.

I would reccomend fitting new bump stops if you haven't already got them as the old ones are normally beaten to a pulp.

Just make certain all the bolts are tight afterwards and recheck a few weeks later or if you feel strange steering.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

Good call Nibbles. Go for the new bump stops, they will make more of a difference than new shocks unless your old ones are toast.

Top ball joints are easy with the right method.

Strip what you can and half undo the top ball joint nut so the nut is over the end of the thread and will protect it. Insert large lever bar between cv and nut, adjust nut until the bar is a snug fit. Lever down on the cv with your bar so you are applying force up on the joint and give a sharp tap with a big hammer


A really handy video here of a fantastic GT4 mechanic making it look too easy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HprZLNz68Jc At the end there should have been a tada!!! 4764 views too, I am popular.

Driver side No1 arm will mean you have to jack the engine up to get the bolt out past the sump, other than that same as near side.

Be very careful with the two bolts into the bottom of the hum too, they are really easy to cross thread and bugger the threads.
Good luck.

I thought you would mention an angle grinder, is it on a shelf somewhere?

Sorry, just had to

The joints are easy with the fig 8 being a 3 legged splitter and the top ball joint a wide forked splitter.

i nearly took my hand off with the crowbar approach as mine was tighter than trying to get a fiver out of my wallet.

So i just went and got a splitter and ground the edges out and got it off that way.

As above for the straight arm, jack the block up off the sump with a block of wood on a jack, not much at all though, just a tiny amount enought to do the work

Thanks for taking the time to reply guys.
That's a helpful video Crossy, you've done that before!
I have tooled-up with a 3 leg puller, scissor type ball-joint splitter, and spring compressor. Angle-grinder on hand if required.
I've also just ordered bump-stops... I wasn't going to bother, but it makes sense to do it given what you're saying.
Roll on the weekend. Here's hoping my knuckles are still intact by beer-o'clock on Sunday!

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you should be fine, did mine in no time, although i did have to pop down to my local to get them to angle grind out the scissor splitter forks as mine were not wide enough to get around the top ball joint.

Although i would personally have a new top ball joint if you dont already have one as they could do with changing with the strut and also you may well split the rubber seal too in removing it

That's why I don't use a splitter.

If you get the bar sitting just right on the cv and the nut so the bar is just snug any movement on the bar will put pressure on the joint, tap with a hammer and apply pressure until it pops.

thats true, i just stopped when i slipped off the joint and caused myself a rather large pain. ha

but then again i should expect that, the gtfour always asks that i show some sign of blood evertime i work on it, much like my friends skyline, i think they hate me. haha

I think the new struts have the top ball-joint fitted, although I'd better check!

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All the ones I have done do come with the joint.

My KYB's had a new top joint ready fitted.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.