Also, with the ecu supply being low,there must be a lower threshold at which it no longer functions.before that, are the ecu outputs just artificially low also as theyre derived from the low 11v supply? This would in turn, cause sensor feeds into the ecu to be inaccurate?

The internal electronics normally runs at 5V with an internal regulator which will run down to about 7.5V in. Sensors are normally fed from this 5V supply so will be accurate.

The main problem is that the injectors are driven from the +12 (actually +14 ish normally) and the speed of operation of injectors (dead time) is proportional to voltage. If the voltage is low, the mixture will go weak as the injectors will be slower to fire. The ECU should have correction for this but it isn't 100% accurate so mapping should take place at the full operating voltage.

As an aside, you need to be sure the injector feed is also good in in fairly heavy gauge wire to minimise voltage drop. The most important thing is that the ECU & injector feeds should be the same voltage so that the ECU corrects for any drop in voltage. Failure to do this could result in a fried engine.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

it was just the feed to the ecu that was low, i have fitted new feeds now with inline fuse to keep things safe, so every thing should be ok now, just goto get it back and get it mapped ready for japfest saturday

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just got back from having the beast mapped and all I can say is O MY GOD it quick won’t know what power it is pushing till it on the dyno in a few weeks time to tweak the map, but I’m very happy bring in japfest

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Nice one buddy, i can't wait to have a look around it at japfest

well first time out on track after the build and I’m well happy the car ran rely well and boy does it handle good
http://youtu.be/rRTF4Sq2KDY

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BRD Page

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Sounds good! Nice vid.

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ST185 CS #1845

done a few bits to the car today. first I flushed then bled all the brake system with AP 600


then I relocated the oil cool
here you can see were to oil cooler was before

not much room for the air to get to it.

here it is now in its new home




just go to plum it back in tomorrow I’m all so looking at fitting a small fan on the back of the oil cooler

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BRD Page

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You really "Macgyverd" that in there with ducktape.

I'm sure you will securely mount that. Any Idea when your going to the dyno?

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ST185 CS #1845

the ducktape is only there to stop the air flowing under the oil cooler, itsi all bolted and straped in nice and tight

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BRD Page

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Have you measured your oil temps? I doubt that you will need a fan as well.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Sorry but : i would never installed the rad upside down

how many rows will contain oil ? how many rows contain air ? how to bleed the rad ?

It's nice for service but you waste 50+% utility



And having use this place with a 13 rows before you don't need a fan, just take care of ducting the air as much as you can. If oil doesn't go too high it doesn't need to be overcooled

i can only fit it this way round as there isent room the other way to get the take off pipe in, the fan was just an idea.

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BRD Page

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try loosing those fittings and use banjo bolts instead , u will get some room

Did Toyota get it wrong as well by mounting the gearbox oil cooler 'up-side down' too?
I was always lead to believe Toyota spent the most money in R&D!?

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Steve Gillies
ST-165 88 UK

www.GT4-Play.co.uk