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Diceman
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 11:36 am 
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Yeh - I can't remember if you went Gt3071R or have stuck with the turbo technics turbo but You really need to clock your compressor housing :-)

Reducing IC piping bends & length will....
1) reduce volume in IC system and improve spool.
2) reduce pressure drop through teh IC system.
3) which allows the turbo to work less to produce same flow/pressure.
4) which means charge temps are lower
5) or you can run more boost safely

Your greater than 90 degree bend immediately after the turbo outlet is squashed which is also reducing teh CSA at teh point of the most difficult path. Less CSA will mean greater velocity and pressure drop increase ratio is proportional to velocity squared.
PD:V^2

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mixer72
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 6:48 pm 
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im still using the turbo technics turbo but dont think there is room to clock the turbo :( as i have a 52mm rad i would like to clock it if i can but not shore how to do it and what i would need to do it? can i be done on the car?
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Sunny
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 8:03 pm 
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Hi,

i think you just have to dismount the actuator bracket and hoses and then open the clamp of the compressor cover slightly and a friend should clock it

be carfull, don't damage the compressor wheel

but then you have to do a custom acuator bracket

greetz

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mixer72
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 5:13 pm 
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little update i now have some nice 18" wheels

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MrDB
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 5:31 pm 
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Looking good mate
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Meurz
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 1:09 am 
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I want that Mini. 8)

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mixer72
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 12:18 pm 
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Meurz wrote:
I want that Mini. 8)


thats my mate full out works mini he spent about £20k on it so far, it just wating to got to be painted the refit every thing will ook rely good when it all done :)
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mixer72
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 5:13 pm 
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ok little update, after fitting the new wheels i needed to flar the wheel arch a bit so thay dont rub so i got 1 of these
Image

and then did this
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add a bit of heat to stop paint from spliting
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then flar the arch
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i now have about 5mm more room so the tyres dont rub any more :)
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mixer72
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 7:18 pm 
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got a few more bits today
some nice 20mm hubcentric wheel spacers
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and some longer bolts
Image

will be fitting them the weekend and roling the rear arche's
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TrackToyFour
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 7:51 pm 
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How easy is it to fit the longer wheel studs on 185 hubs? On the 205 this could be quite tricky without dismantling the whole hub. I've only ever fitted standard length studs but would be keen to fit longer ones.

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mixer72
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 8:03 pm 
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ill let you know after the weekend, but i do all ready how longer studs all round but just not long enuf for the spacers
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Muddy Water
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:21 pm 
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The 185 hub actually has a recess in the back to allow you to bang out the old stud without having to dismantle everything. :wink:

Tip: Get an old wheel nut and wind it on the stud so it fits flush to the top of the stud. Then you can hit it hard with a hammer. This ensures you dont splay out the stud or damage the threads and you can still remove the nut.

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Meurz
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:39 pm 
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Only risk is damaging the bearings. I did the same on all 4 corners of my Starlet though, worked perfectly. :)

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MrDB
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 11:42 pm 
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Fronts have a recess to knock them out rears need hub flange pushing out to get access to studs. AFAIK.
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mixer72
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:54 am 
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well i will let you all konw over the weekend :)
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