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 Post subject: LSD / Diff Info
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:08 am 
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Group N

Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 2:33 pm
Posts: 401
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Car Model: ST185
Due to the potential of getting a cheap st205 torsen diff, I've been looking at LSD/diff info around the net.

here is are my codes:

1990 GT4-A

Model: E-ST185H-BLMVZ
Engine: 3S-GTE
Frame no: ST185-0010xxx
Color/Trim: 040 FQ10
Trans/Axel: E150F - 734

From one of Gary's posts on alltrac.net, the 734 diff is not a torsen.

http://www.alltrac.net/phpBB2/viewtopic ... e&start=45 - 3/4 way down page with photo link to vin plate with 734 code on it..

then there is this info of Gary's as well:
http://www.gt4oc.net/forums/viewtopic.p ... 34#p799759

BUT.. and here's the but.. with the GT4 Type A, according to Hyperrev Celica edition, the Type A came with a Torsen diff in the rear.

info also repeated here:
http://www.geocities.jp/miz_rc/
(chuck through a translate website)

767 is the torsen diff on the RC according to http://www.celica.dds.nl/en/celihist.htm

So really.. what diff do I have if its a 734 code?

The opportunity to buy this st205 torsen is going over the next couple of days, though its been around for months, but there is someone interested in it, and the fact that I have no money, I'd like to know what I have before I buy something that I may or may not need.

Any advice would be aprreciated

Cheers
Dave


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:32 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 13, 2005 6:54 pm
Posts: 3486
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I can't tell you for sure and woudl just be repeating information obtained by others but.

I understood that 734 is viscous and 767 was torsen.

Also - caution in confusing "group A" and "GT4-A"

Group A is NZ version of CS/RC
GT4-A is JDM (maybe NZ too) standard GT4 but with a higher trim level.

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Silver BMW E46 M3
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:44 pm
Posts: 4067
Location: drinking devil fuel
Car Model: ST205
Pull the rear cover off your diff and have a look. Should be about 8 14mm bolts from memory.

If you're looking at a diff which has visible worm drive gears in the main rotating assembley then it's a Torsen ;)

Point of note, the housing is not sealed with a gasket. You'll need a tube of "liquid" gasket sealer to re-assemble. In the UK a suitable product is Blue Hylamar but I'm not sure if it's available in NZ


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:05 am 
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Group N

Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 2:33 pm
Posts: 401
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Car Model: ST185
I never confuse a Group A with a GT4 A. Hence why I was asking about the torsen because I know that that group A has a torsen already :)

And DJ said the same thing on OC two_oh_five.
Looks like I'll just have to wait until I get my rear subframe out and crack open the diff.

I'll be able to find a suitable gasket sealer I'm sure :)

I may just pass this one up and concentrate on other parts of the cars. I don't think I'll be on the road for maybe another 6 months at least:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:35 am 
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Zoiks,
I would love the space to be able to totally strip mine and get it cleaned, dipped, zinc'd & painted.

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Grey St185 RC
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Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:07 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 2:33 pm
Posts: 401
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Car Model: ST185
Well I have the space, but no time to do as much as I want to do.

Car has been off the road for around 15 months now (i think) and this is as far as I have got hahaha.

Time is something I have very little of, though I have a heap of part sitting around in the garage.

While you're around, change my model sig thingy to GT4 Type A and add a projects thread area :P


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 8:06 pm
Posts: 595
Location: Knoxville, TN USA
Car Model: None
If you drain the diff you can look into the drain hole to see the internals w/o having to remove it from the car. I posted details on how towards the end of the alltrac.net thread you posted. The trick is a very strong point, small flash light.

I think toyota has confused everyone by listing the non CS/GA/RC models as viscous coupling lsds, since all the 185s had a center VC lsd. For the 185 the numbers seem worthless for finding the lsd info. The vin does not even help when going to the dealer.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 12:28 pm
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said the same on OC about looking inside..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:21 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 2:33 pm
Posts: 401
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Car Model: ST185
Thanks guys.
I can't reply on the OC DJ.. meh lol.

I'll see if I'll have time tonight to drain the pumpkin and shove a light up there.

Otherwise I'll just leave it and refocus the money on other stuff.. maybe that st215 manifold and throttle body ;)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:29 pm 
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Junior WRC

Joined: Tue May 23, 2006 8:06 pm
Posts: 595
Location: Knoxville, TN USA
Car Model: None
If you drain it, make sure you can refill it. I have a special pump for that stuff. Even with the pump, it is a pain to fill a rear diff while it is in the car. The pumps are cheap though so its not a bad investment.

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:33 pm 
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Group N

Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 2:33 pm
Posts: 401
Location: Wellington, New Zealand
Car Model: ST185
Cheers Josh,

I may just wait until the subframe is off the car then.

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"I want to enjoy the powerful and nimble agility behavior."

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