In these pages we hope to help solve some of the more common ones
Most (but not all) problems are automatically detected and flagged by the car's ECU by lighting the Check Engine Light (CEL). It is worth noting that not all problems will turn on the CEL so it is worth performing regular checks to check for "invisible" codes
To find out what error the ECU has detected you need to switch it into diagnostic mode. To do this:-
Switch off the ignition. Locate the diagnostic box, under the bonnet behind the passenger suspension turret. The lid of the box hinges open and on the back of the lid there is a pinout of the connector. Locate the E1 and TE1 terminals and using a paperclip, piece of wire etc connect these two terminals together. Go back into the car and switch the ignition to on (but do not start the car) and observe the check engine light. It will do one of two things:-
A steady flashing indicates that there are no stored codes (as shown in the image above)
Otherwise, count the number of flashes and write down the number. There is a pause between each number, so if you count 5, then observe a pause, then count 4, that makes error code 54.
There may be multiple errors stored. It is a good idea to clear any codes once in
a while, by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for a few seconds,
or removing the EFI fuse in the fusebox for a few seconds and replacing it. This
makes it easier to diagnose new problems.
Checking for error codes should always be your first port of call when trying to track down any
engine running issues. Also, remember to make sure the Check Engine light is actually working
It should illuminate when you turn the ignition to the running position but don't actually start the car
| Code | System | Diagnosis |
|---|---|---|
| 11 | ECU (+B) | Momentary interruption in power to ECU |
| 12 | RPM Signal | No NE or G signal to ECU within 2 seconds after engine has been cranked |
| 13 | Ignition Signal | No NE signal to ECU when engine speed is above 1,000 rpm |
| 14 | Ignition Signal | No IGF signal to ECU 8-11 times in succession |
| 21 | Oxygen Sensor/Heater circuit | Detection of oxygen sensor deterioration or open or short in oxygen sensor heater |
| 22 | Water Temp Signal | Open or short in water temp. sensor signal (THW) |
| 24 | Intake Air Temp. Sensor | Open or short in intake air temp. sensor signal (THA) |
| 25 | Air-fuel Ratio Lean Malfunction | Oxygen sensor outputs a lean signal continuously for several seconds during air-fuel ratio correction. Open or short in oxygen sensor (OX) |
| 26 | Air-fuel Ratio Rich Malfunction | Oxygen sensor outputs a rich signal continuously for several seconds during air-fuel ratio correction |
| 31 | Air-Flow Meter Signal | Open cct in VC signal or short cct between VS and E2 when idle contacts are closed |
| 32 | Air-Flow Meter Signal | Open cct in E2 or short cct between VC and VS |
| 34 | Turbocharging Pressure Signal | Fuel cut-off due to high turbocharging pressure |
| 35 | Turbocharging Pressure Sensor Signal | Open or short in turbocharging sensor pressure signal (PIM) |
| 41 | Throttle Position Sensor Signal | Open or short in throttle position sensor signal (VTA) |
| 42 | Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal | No SPD signal for 8 seconds when engine speed is between 2,500rpm and 6,000rpm and coolant temperature is below 80C (176F) except when racing the engine |
| 43 | Starter Signal | No STA signal to ECU until engine speed reaches 800rpm with vehicle not moving |
| 51 | Switch Signal | No IDL signal or A/C signal to ECU, with check terminals TE1 and E1 shorted |
| 52 | Knock Sensor Signal | Open or short in knock sensor signal (KNK) |
| 53 | Knock Sensor Control Signal in ECU | Knock control in ECU faulty |
| 54 | Intercooler (water/air) | Intercooler pump problem |
Often this is very simple, just a matter of checking the coolant level in the intercooler reservoir. After topping up, you need to reset the ECU to clear the error code. You can do this by removing the EFI fuse from the fuse box for a few seconds, or disconnecting the negative terminal on the battery. This is necessary as the ECU will limit boost levels if code 54 is detected.
Error Code 54 may indicate a problem with the intercooler water circulation pump. If all else fails, you may need to replace the bearings in the pump as described here.
Some owners prefer their intercooler running constantly, rather than the
haphazard on/off that the stock ECU seems to dictate. This will cause a
problem with the ECU detecting code 54. There is a write up on pump overhaul in the maintenance section.