two_OH_five wrote:
Did the old bearings look the same when you replaced them?
I have them at home, could post pictures later. The top half of the shells were all noticeably more worn than the bottoms. I think this is a sign of some detonation??
two_OH_five wrote:
For the absolute avoidance of doubt is number 1 gearbox end or cambelt end
I'm calling number 1 as in number 1 cylinder, which would be cambelt end. So the 2 that are showing signs of melting are the two closest to the cambelt side.
two_OH_five wrote:
Any non oem bits - lightweight flywheel, alloy pulleys etc
None that I am aware of, pulleys are standard. Flywheel looks like the standard heavy *bleep*.
It's worth noting though that when I had the crank pulley off to do the cambelt I found a chunk of it missing, presumably where it had been dropped on the floor when previously removed. This would have certainly put it out of balance, what effect that would have and how long it was like that I don't know. I have now replaced it though so it's not still on the car. I couldn't believe someone would refit it in that condition....idiots.
two_OH_five wrote:
I think I'd pull and check all the mains, especially up the end where this weird wear is happening worst
I've pulled 3 and 5 already, but 5 is the opposite end to the worn rod bearings, I'll pull mains 1 & 2 and check them, good idea!
two_OH_five wrote:
Check each piston journal web (hope that makes sense) for signs of wear. Check the sides of the rods for signs of wear. If the knock is a rod contacting the crank there will for sure be witness marks
There did appear to be a few wear marks on the sides of the caps & rods, I presume this wear suggests the crank is moving side to side which points to excessive end-play. I'll check end-play later for sure.
two_OH_five wrote:
While you've got the ends apart have a tug on the rods and see if you can feel any play in the little ends
I did try this and I couldn't feel anything, I expect it would be quite obvious if there was wear to the pins as there would be a noise when I wiggle them up and down?? I also did a little twist from side to side and there didn't seem to be any play, of course the piston turned too, but it all seemed very secure and fixed tight.
two_OH_five wrote:
Pull #3 main and check the thrust washers for wear (you'll only be able to check half of them). You check endfloat exactly as you thought.
Thrust washers are quite loose, I'm not sure what they are supposed to be like but I noticed this when I had #3 main cap off. I could touch them with my finger and they would move round with ease ( I'm talking about the tops, not the ones that come off with the cap ). Will of course check end-play to find out if they are too worn.
two_OH_five wrote:
I think I would also try to poke something suitable up the conrod drillings.
These are the small holes in the rods, I presume to allow oil into the top of the shell?
Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it. I'm quite new to this engine internal work, but I've done a lot of research and reading, all the stuff you're saying makes sense. I've done all my own work on my ST205 for the last 7 years, so most jobs I have covered, however internals are quite new still as I was too scared to look before
I've done engine changes, yes several, and clutch. What a job that is haha!!