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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2012 3:20 pm 
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Hi Mike,

great 8)

greetz

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:17 am 
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Hi Mike,

any chance to get a picture until the weekend? :)

greetz

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 4:31 pm 
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Location: Camberley, Surrey
Car Model: ST205
Diceman wrote:
It is a right PITA to measure though as the head is aluminium and not magnetic so the mag mount moves about. It can be done and I have managed to establish that measurements were repeatable so not far out (probably accurate to 0.1mm and the difference is much larger)

As a guide:-
standard cams:- 3.gen 3SGTE (245ps):

In: 240deg, 8.7mm lift (timing 7/53)

Ex: 236deg, 8.2mm lift (timing 50/6)

The low lift are around 8.9-9.0 lift at 264 deg
The high lift are around 9.7-10.0 lift at 264 deg

Hence it should be easy to measure.


I had a go at measuring the cams today and came out with a figure of 9.6mm. That would suggest they are the high lift versions I think.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 08, 2012 5:04 pm 
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Sirius wrote:
The low lift are around 8.9-9.0 lift at 264 deg
The high lift are around 9.7-10.0 lift at 264 deg

I had a go at measuring the cams today and came out with a figure of 9.6mm. That would suggest they are the high lift versions I think.

Great news! That should help your top end 8)

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 11:17 pm 
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Another update:

The refurb on the subframe is now complete, just the last bits of assembly to do before it can go back in the car. :)

Before:
Image

After
Image
Image

I've also prefilled the diff with the correct type and grade oil:

Image

Part of the work on the car was to try and remove any existing rusty patches, or at least treat them to prolong the life of the shell. These were wire brushed, then treated with a rust solution before rinsing. Once dry liberal coats of seam sealer were applied where appropriate and an underseal, I used these two products:

Image

Whilst the subframe is out you get really really easy access to the fuel tank, I had a Walboro pump to fit so I thought it a good time to get that done, on removing the tank I found it to have a fair bit of surface rust so again this was treated with a wire brush (NON SPARKING!) then a rust solution before cleaning and seam sealing before painting:

Image

I also took the opportunity to replace some of the very rusty screws holding the tank and filler neck in. In addition to this one of the tank straps was also very rusty and had to be replaced due to sheared off bolts for the tank cover.

Image

Image

Here just for reference is a couple of pictures of measurements I took to establish the combustion chamber volumes and the camshaft lift. With the camshafts there will be quite a bit of inaccuracy due to the mounting but it was sufficient for my requirement.

Image
Image

Lastly a picture of where all my pennies have been going recently:

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:10 am 
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Location: Chirnside, Scottish Borders
Car Model: ST205
Can't wait to get my coilovers so that I can get them fitted, your pictures stir my loins!

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 5:36 pm 
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Hi folks,

I’ve ben busy beavering away on the car on the last few weekends and evenings so I thought I would post another update:

I got to the stage where the subframe was ready to go back in the car but it occurred to me that the exhaust would be much easier to fit with the subframe out as you don’t have to manouver it over the frame.

When I bought my car it came with a HKS exhaust already fitted, I’ve been quite pleased with the sound and performance of the exhaust so my intention was to remove the exhaust, tidy it up and reinstall it back into the car. My well laid plans were scuppered however when on inspection I found that the exhaust was in really very poor shape with severe rust (HKS is mild steel) around the welds to the silencer and other areas.

This was a shame as I hadn’t planned on replacing the exhaust and the time taken to source a new one was going to hold up the build. After various research and discussions with TrackToyFour I agreed the purchase of a second hand Hayward and Scott exhaust system from him.

Hayward and Scott have a great reputation and as you can see from the picture the system whilst 2nd hand is in fine fettle:

Image

Its also a full system including a new flexi section so I will have to find a new home for my Aussie flexi when that comes off the car.

I thought I would get some new exhaust hanger rubbers, I had a little difficulty in locating appropriately sized ones online so I asked at Toyota and found that the OEM ones are quite reasonably priced:

Image

I also took the opertunity whilst I was ordering the exhaust mounts to buy another load of random nuts and bolts etc – where does it end??!

Image

With the rear section of the exhaust fitted it was time to turn my attention to the reinstallation of the subframe. New ARB bushes and clamps were sourced:

Image

A couple of weekends back before Johnny’s BBQ, Clive, Dan and Phil were kind enough to lend me a hand putting the subframe back in the car, it was mostly already assembled so weighed quite a bit, with their help it only took about 15 minutes to get it fitted in place. I don’t have a great picture due to the car only being on axle stands but here is a random short of the underside. I am quite pleased with how the powdercoating and undersealing has gone.

Image

I also did some work to freshen up the fuel tank guard, it was cracked in a couple of places so I applied some quick fix fibre glass to repair and washed it then went to town with the Autoglym Bumper Care to restore the black colour to it. I’m really pleased with the result, as this has been bugging me for a few years.

Image
Image
Image

With that back in the car it now looks like its really coming together:

Image

The Toyota chassis manual says that before torquing the suspension arm bolts to their final setting the car should be put back on its wheels and allowed to settle before jacking the car back up and doing the final tighten, so I have just torqued the subframe to chassis fixings and the strut to hub fixings as stated in the manual.

After all that I decided to turn my attention to the engine, I want to get it built up as much as possible so that when I swap them over there isn’t too long with two engines sat around as I have relatively limited space.

I started by doing a couple of jobs on the cylinder head to make sure it was ready for installation:

Small amount of sealant on the end camcaps as stated in the 3S-GTE engine manual:

Image

I then dry installed the camgears to ensure the camshafts were set to zero:

Image

Once that was complete I turned my attention to the block, the oil pump has been installed and a few other bits dry installed for checking, a few of the bolts from the engine were in a quite poor state so some have been replaced:

Image

I also thought I would have a go at doing the sealant on the sump pan to connect it to the upper sump, I think I managed a really neat job with not too much extraneous material but enough to see some on all edges all the way round:

Image

For the observant amoungst you you may notice that in doing this I made a bad rookie error, some of the bolts that attach the upper sump to the block are only accessible with the lower sump off….so the upper sump has to be installed onto the block first. The result – a whole day spend splitting the two parts and thoroughly cleaning both parts to remove all the RTV sealant – doh!

Before assembling the block onto the head I gave the bores a wipe with some assembly lube and the head a coating with some appropriate lube:

Image

I then installed the ARP headstuds that I got from TB developments and after making sure the engine was at top dead centre and the head gasket the right way round I installed the cylinder head and capped most of the entryways into the engine:

Image
Image

If anyone notes anything wrong with any of this please do let me know, I think I have done things right but this is the first time in building an engine up. None of the cambelt is installed yet so I don’t think anything too drastic can go wrong yet!

Lastly I finished off last night by temporarily installing the rear brake discs and wheels so I could lower the car back onto its own wheels to settle before torquing the suspension arm bolts up.

Image

It is really satisfying to see it back on its wheels after all this time up in the air – it seems a lot lower than I remember!

Cheers, Mike :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 6:06 pm 
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Hi Mike,

thats a great update, looks like everything comes together soon 8)

but you sealed the camshaft brackets not correct, it do not have to be under it it must be like on the picture to seal the valvecover

Image

greetz

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:55 pm 
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Sealing under the caps is a very good idea in my book. Else you are trying to stop oil with a metal to metal joint which will probably weep

You should not need to use sealer with a rubber gasket on the cam cover. I did in those tight corners but only for peace of mind

Hope the cam cover is on and the oil exchanger hole is covered as those give direct access to the oil galleries while the plug holes only let you drop junk into the cylinder


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 9:30 pm 
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Thanks for the comments, yes the cam cover is on now and the oil gallery blocked. Just didn't have a picture :)

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 11:09 pm 
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Are you painting/rustproofing the ARB brackets?

Image

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1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 7:43 am 
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Hi Don,

These new arb brackets are stainless which wasn't available when I first fitted the bar. You can now get these in both stainless and mild from super flex.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 1:26 pm 
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Location: Wiltshire
Car Model: ST205
Just noticed in the pic of the fuel pump, that the wires have been cut and joined, and heatshrank (if that is a word)?

That is exactly what I did with mine, but found when I was showing Chris, that the heat shrink was showing signs of going soft. Not petrol proof?

I ended up wrapping it up in a piece of rubber petrol pipe and tie wrapping it to the metal fuel pipes as an extra precaution. May be an idea you want to adopt?

Thanks to Nibbles for the idea :D

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 5:52 pm 
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Have you got a link, source and rough price for the red subframe bushes you fitted Mike?

Tempted to do mine when I fit the replacement subframes.

Thanks

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Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2012 6:03 pm 
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I got mine here:

http://www.gt4-racing.eu/

Might be worth seeing how much new ones are from Toyota as well if they are worn.

:)

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