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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 8:13 am 
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I'm trying to look through the manuals to see the logic behind the AC and radiator fan wiring/control.

Both fans have been replaced with spal fans in my car and AC removed and due to the lengthy period between removal and refitting ( years!) I don't know which loom plug feeds which fan!

Initially both fans would run constant when fitted but bridging the AC line pressure sensor cured this. I'm just not sure at present if both fans will run at all now!

Question:
1) does it matter which of the 2 existing loom connectors (for AC and rad fan) are used?
2) bgb (Bbb as blue for st185!) engine manual inspection suggests that the rad fan wiring circuit has both rad temp switch and AC pressure switch wired so that either can operate the rad fan, I don't have the manual that details the AC fan circuit if separate - is it different or just another spur off the same circuit?

My concern is that having had overheating issues recently (a couple of problems found which I believe are the cause) that the rad fans may not be operating as intended.

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 9:04 am 
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To test the fan control unplug the sensor in the rad and check they come on.

The standard circuit is somewhat complex and the even I haven't got my head round if yet, at least not for more than a few minutes after looking at the diagram.
I would be tempted to wire a fan to each and test as I think they both run. That will reduce the load on each set of wires.

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:05 am 
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Thanks Chris,

I will undertake the test by disconnecting the rad sensor (it was my plan in the event that the information wasn't really available.)

Unfortunately I've been a bit slack and not labelled the the correct connectors; with AC removal, no ABS and cat temp sensor deleted I have loads of redundant plugs and no stock fans to check against now!

By any chance can you remember if the 2 original fans were wired off the loom section coming over the cam cover, from the loom section in the front bumper with the horn plugs or one fan off each loom section?

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 7:55 pm 
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The loom over the cam cover only goes to engine mounted stuff unless my memory is very amiss.

From memory, each fan had a plug in each top corner of engine bay.

Wire colours:

A/C fan: -Black/White + Blue/Red
Rad fan: -White/Black + Black/Red

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 9:06 pm 
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JP, you need to buy a stock 185 as a Civic replacement then you can use it to work out how to put yours back together! :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:20 pm 
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Nibbles wrote:
The loom over the cam cover only goes to engine mounted stuff unless my memory is very amiss.

From memory, each fan had a plug in each top corner of engine bay.

Wire colours:

A/C fan: -Black/White + Blue/Red
Rad fan: -White/Black + Black/Red


Thanks Chris,
The cam cover look also contains the rad fan switch plug.

I'll get my little girl on the colour identification tomorrow ;-) (I'm color blind!)

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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 10:21 pm 
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TrackToyFour wrote:
JP, you need to buy a stock 185 as a Civic replacement then you can use it to work out how to put yours back together! :lol:


Find me a stock mint st185 in White or grey (cs or rc) and you're on ;-)

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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 10:25 pm 
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Diceman wrote:
Find me a stock mint st185 in White or grey (cs or rc) and you're on ;-)
I'd be tempted myself by a white RC!

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PostPosted: Tue May 24, 2016 1:47 pm 
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So basic checks done.
1) removal of rad temp switch plug operates both fans.
2) the car has now been through a few heat cycles and the fans are activating as intended now the AC pressure switch has been bridged.

The RC is reported to have a 160W Rad fan and uprated over the regular St185 to cope with the IC rad. Each Spal is 84W maximum at peak current operating point (middle of the fan curve for volume/pressure) and falls to 75W ish at the expected operating point so it is roughly "in spec" and sufficient for me to now worry instantly about rewiring - although long term I may well do this once I get the DVM on the loom plugs and find the AC fan connector.

Many thanks for the help guys. Another item ticked off the list of checks.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 8:23 am 
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Interesting read as I'm also having fan issues since the rebuild with the radiator fan constantly running and ive yet to try the AC bridge you suggested last week JP.
My AC fan had blown it self apart, seizes and blew the 60a fuse, I replaced the fuse and the AC fan has been removed awaiting a replacement. I also replaced the relay too as the top had come off and had some damage to one of the windings inside, these are £38 from Mr T and come from Belgium but was lucky enough to source one somewhere else at a considerably less cost.
Any way my question is do I need the AC fan in place to stop the main radiator fan from constantly running and what is the consensus on Spal fans and power rating etc? Dorris

PS was nice to catch up with you guys last week and sorry you couldn't make it Chris, next time I hope.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 05, 2016 10:40 am 
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I believe it was only an issue for me as I had removed the AC sensor and piepwork. The sensor is located on the AC pipework by the passenger strut tower. My understanding is that it will probably be ok if you still have sensor fitted, typically commercial AC will trigger fans when they detect over pressure.

With regard to spal fans, it was not a fully engineered solution. I should have measured the airflow and pressure of the standard fans (which I am capable of doing and have the test kit for work) as the power consumption is no indicator of a like-for-like replacement. I opted for the largest spal fans that would physically fit the rad and so as to allow junking of the fan shroud and still pass air over most of the rad core. With the removal of the AC rad up front and replacement of the dense fin chargecoolwr rad with a more open fmic core it seemed a close enough solution according to my rule if gut!

Looking at the designs I expect the spal is a more efficient fan blade configuration and may also be more efficient motor but unless tested it's just speculative. If it's any consolation I have heard of people running just 1 spal fan and being ok (I have 2) and even when the fans were wired up the wrong way around ( significantly reduced flow/pressure typically)I didn't get any overheating when stationary so I expect I will be fine. The other indicator is that the fans seem to operate for a shorter period than the stock units before the temp switch shuts them down again, this may be due to the changed and supposedly updated rad but again it's indicative it's probably fit for purpose.

It's a bit stupid in hindsight that one of the aspects of the car I know most about and could have engineered properly I have relied on gut feel, hopefully it's experience talking to my gut!

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