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Modified thermostat?
http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2351
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Author:  two_OH_five [ Sat Apr 12, 2008 12:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Modified thermostat?

I know that ideally a race engine would most likely either run a pure restrictor plate or nothing combined with a variable speed EWP

I'm not quite ready for the jump to EWP just yet and I fear that a restrictor plate in an engine which is mainly used as a road vehicle has too many issues - mainly failure to reach working temp most of the time, running cold maps for longer etc etc

So
I have an old 81C thermostat
I have a drill and selection of drills
I have an idea

The stock 'stat stays shut to ~80C then opens with a bang creating thermal shock in the block
What if I were to chain drill a few holes round the circumference. Think jiggle pin hole but a few more of larger diameter
This way the stock stat would still flow some water round the block during warmup but should still reach operating temp reasonably fast.

Brilliant stroke of innovating genius?
Or insane ramblings of a complete tool?

Answers on a postcard please

Author:  Gary ST165 [ Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:48 pm ]
Post subject: 

brilliant stroke of innovating genius 8)

Author:  Candyman [ Sat Apr 12, 2008 1:52 pm ]
Post subject: 

So water would pass wound the coolant system and through the rad while the engine was cold because the thermostat wasn't stopping it properly?


To my mind the issue is in finding the balance point between longer warmup times and a decent benefit as far as flow goes. If the flow is good enough to prevent thermal shock (ie temp on both sides of the stat is close to the same) then surely that means the flow is good enough to lose heat through the rad. Causing the problem of longer warmup times.

I guess the idea could work, but getting the balance is key. Too few holes, no penefit. Too many, longer warmup times. Whether there is a happy medium to be found is more than I can tell ya :)

Author:  two_OH_five [ Sat Apr 12, 2008 4:02 pm ]
Post subject: 

quite correct Paul

There will be an impact on warmup but it's (hopefully) not as bad as a straight restrictor plate. I hope

Author:  Kris [ Sun Apr 13, 2008 7:35 pm ]
Post subject: 

Think the stat gradually opens rather than the "bang" open decribed above.

Believe the drilling of an additional one or 2 3mm holes is fairly common practice on higher output cars?

Author:  Prochorus familiaris [ Mon Apr 14, 2008 4:50 pm ]
Post subject: 

No bang, who told you, that bang takes the place?
It's consequent opening of the valve..

TMM it's no need to do smth with it, especially to install stuff like TRD with 71 (IIRC) level..

Normal atomisation of fuel goes at grade between 75-80, if to keep this range all will be fine..

Author:  Muddy Water [ Thu May 15, 2008 4:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Better late than never...

Kris is quite correct...'stat gradually opens..'
Easy check is to put a thermostat in a bowl or cup.
Pour boiling water over it.
Observe the results as the thermostat gradually opens.

Very good method for testing if a thermostat is working/opening correctly.

Author:  two_OH_five [ Thu May 15, 2008 6:49 pm ]
Post subject: 

It's still quite a bang in thermal shock terms though. It might only open a small amount but it's very suddenly going to dump cold water from the non circulating rad into a hot engine block

Author:  Muddy Water [ Thu May 15, 2008 9:22 pm ]
Post subject: 

You reckon its that bad Steve? :shock:
I'm wish I'd kept my old Chemistry set...I'm sure I could have rigged something up and done a test :idea:

Author:  two_OH_five [ Thu May 15, 2008 9:54 pm ]
Post subject: 

THAT bad - probably not on it's own

One of a number of bad things that's simply addressed - yes

Author:  Candyman [ Thu May 15, 2008 10:05 pm ]
Post subject: 

Sounds like you're better off removing the thermostat entirely and fitting some kind of retractable rediator cover/cowling. That way the water never has to have a temperature difference point to point :)

Author:  two_OH_five [ Thu May 15, 2008 10:50 pm ]
Post subject: 

I hope that the little holes I have will allow water flow through the rad at least warming the contents of that while cooling the block a little

I doubt it's perfect but it must reduce the delta between rad and block quite a bit

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