Sorry.... my English...

are you saying that camber bolts are not going to give me correct and/or enough adjustment ?

Wolf

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Wolf_Tm
TM 250 enduro 2 stroke
GT-four ST205 Snowy White with selfmade 3SGTE v4.1 - [2.34kg/bhp DynoDynamics]
http://www.youtube.com/WolfTm250
http://www.facebook.com/wolf.tm

They provide adjustment but quality is not great.

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JP
GT4DC Treasurer

Grey St185 RC
Silver BMW E46 M3
Multicolour yawn Honda VFR400
Silver Honda Civic Type-R

My chassis builder prefers to fit adjustable top mounts rather than camber bolts. Its a better solution as it makes adjustment easier.

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

I also remember DataJon mentioning something about the way in which the bolts alter the camber.

Apparently it introduces a side loading on the damper piston and housing which can result in premature failure.

Anyone remember the specifics?

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

yes.

It's all about thrust vectors. If the face of the wheel is in line with the damper then you can imagine vertical wheel movement results in the same movement at the shaft

If the wheel is inclined relative to the shaft then moving the wheel will introduce a side load onto the shaft. It's hard to describe but quite easy to picture with the aid of props

Anothe thing about camber bolts is they're quite a bit thinner than normal bolts to facilitate the adjustment

However, they are a simple way of adjusting stuff if you do not have adjustability anywhere.

Don, I thought you had adjustable arms, not topmounts.....

Steve, you will be amazed to hear that I can indeed move my arms in and out and round about Top mounts are front only on my track toy. Most rally cars seem to be built this way. The Corolla WRC had fixed rear top mounts so I suppose all the adjustment was done on the lower wishbones and TCA's

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Ok understood, thanks!

BTW... is it possible to fit Adj. top mounts in the rear ?
The hole where the rear top mount sits, seems to be quite small...

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Wolf_Tm
TM 250 enduro 2 stroke
GT-four ST205 Snowy White with selfmade 3SGTE v4.1 - [2.34kg/bhp DynoDynamics]
http://www.youtube.com/WolfTm250
http://www.facebook.com/wolf.tm

i don't think anyone makes adjustable ones. Iirc you are correct, normal ”front” adjustable ones do not fit

For a small range of camber adjustment you could just make the non adjustable rear arm adjustable. This would allow some camber change with the front already adjustable arm controlling toe. I think you'd get about half a degree of camber that way.

Otherwise modify both arms to make them adjustable and you can add unlimited adjustment within reason.....

On the note of adjustable rears, why not just get the rear tubular lower arm modified to be adjustable for camber changes? Maybe get the ends filled with a slug, then have them threaded and use a method similar to the tie rod adjustment to change camber.

This was the concept I plan to attempt with my own 205 rear arms.

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Coldiron (Cold - Iron)
1992 Celica Gt4 RC Conv. St205 swap

http://www.noritoy.com

Hi folks,

setting up a chassis is a own science

if you have knowledge you can do it pretty good, but you also can destroy so many

"less is more" is my approach

greetz

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KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE

street legal?.....perhaps in tschibuti

Yes Mates,

I really think this would be the way to go...

Even if I must say -2.5 deg per side is working GREAT in track...
Maybe too well...
today I had a track session and I had not any chance of getting some good oversteer out of turns, even if the engine pulled SO HARD that it was impossible to use the 2nd gear to make turns:
as I touched the gas, the engine was already at the limitter with all the 4 wheels (BS 050 235/40-17) madly spinning!

I think I could try removing uprated front stabilizer bar, and increasing rear height and compression damping to gain some traction in the front.

This said, the BC are FANTASTIC in mountain roads and for daily driving!

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Wolf_Tm
TM 250 enduro 2 stroke
GT-four ST205 Snowy White with selfmade 3SGTE v4.1 - [2.34kg/bhp DynoDynamics]
http://www.youtube.com/WolfTm250
http://www.facebook.com/wolf.tm

You will need to replace the threaded section with a piece with opposed threads on it. ie. left and right hand threads so that you can make small adjustments while the rod ends are still attached to the car. It also would mean that you are not restricted to a half turn at each adjustment but can dial in as much or as little as you need!

If you look at the "track weapon chassis" thread there's an example ot what to do

IMO the stock arms are too thin to safely plug. I think you'd have to sleeve them with a thicker tube then use that to weld in plugs

Yes, it makes a sense...

so it's the same for the front camber plates from Fensport ?

_________________
Wolf_Tm
TM 250 enduro 2 stroke
GT-four ST205 Snowy White with selfmade 3SGTE v4.1 - [2.34kg/bhp DynoDynamics]
http://www.youtube.com/WolfTm250
http://www.facebook.com/wolf.tm

no...

The superstrut setup on the front is rather different as the shock is effectivly decoupled from the wheel axis. You could in effect add 45 degrees camber and the shock would still only be vertically loaded. There may be other bad side effects though