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thoughts on flexi fmic pipework http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=223 |
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Author: | andycaca [ Mon Oct 31, 2005 5:27 pm ] |
Post subject: | thoughts on flexi fmic pipework |
hi all ![]() i was chatting to a car mechanic (bog standard, not a tuner) about why i havent fitted my FMIC yet (huge costs to weld up the pipes) when he suggested i have a try using 2.5" flexi hose (same stuff as used in exhausts). he had a couple of points to make about this method 1. cheap at 20 quid for 2 metres, will need 2x2m lengths for a typical install. 2. flexible enough to move with the engine. 3. solid enough not to blow off at moderate pressures. im kinda thinking that for the hell of it, i should get 4 metres of this stuff and give it a go. i know the interior surface of the pipe is going to be pretty rough but will that really make much difference? personally, i am not going after huge power - more a sustained cooling effort for trackday action. once the pipes are fitted, its easy enough to heatwrap them and noone will ever know how cheap it was ![]() thoughts and opinions readily accepted ![]() |
Author: | Kris [ Mon Oct 31, 2005 5:47 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Andy - what is this stuff called that you are thinking of? |
Author: | andycaca [ Mon Oct 31, 2005 8:34 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
its called "flex tubing" in the trade Arvin catalogue for replacement exhausts and associated pieces part number is FCP13L for 64mm tubing. its basically exhaust flexi hth ![]() |
Author: | Kris [ Mon Oct 31, 2005 8:49 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
hmmm, not too sure about that stuff...immediate reservations for using this stuff would be: 1. Material it is manufactured from 2. Internal construction i.e. smooth would be good ![]() 3. How heavy is this going to be? 4. How will you join the ends together with e.g. Samco? 5. Will this hold e.g. 2 bar boost? Would be very handy is this stuff was a solution, it would save on a lot of hassle for hard pipes? I suspect that this probably isn't going to be suitable or there would be loads of cars with this already attached to?! ![]() |
Author: | two_OH_five [ Tue Nov 01, 2005 12:12 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Like This stuff Andy? I would be concerned about poor flow at the boundary layer - you might need to go up a size sort of thing to account for this Also. I have no idea on the pressure capabilities? And it's potentially quite heavy Wort further investigation I suspect. I have had similar thoughts but using exhaust quality rubber hosing like you find on boats. Not that cheep though ![]() |
Author: | krude [ Tue Nov 01, 2005 12:23 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
http://www.flextubing.com/SelectionGuide.htm Ether-Pur FLEX 84 & Ester-PUR FLEX 85 is rated to 5500Psi ![]() ![]() |
Author: | datajon [ Tue Nov 01, 2005 11:59 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
I would not use it, that’s for sure. Many reasons, . Low performance, corrosion, loose bits coming off, then entering the engine, many others tooooooo… You can get Nice shiny 2 1/2" stainless steel pipe for £15 a meter. I take’s about 3.5 meters approx to make compete system. Bends, well a few choices, some soft, some hard, cut the 90's for 45, they become cheap that way, some welding, bit of buffing, and sorted. my website, needs a lick of paint and some polish. |
Author: | Diceman [ Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:20 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Any benefit of stainless over Ally Jon? |
Author: | Candyman [ Wed Nov 02, 2005 12:26 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I'm sure I've seen a front mount which was entirely fitted with straight lengths of steel pipe. The curves were made by linking these together with Samco piping. Is this not a good plan? Would seem to get the best of both worlds to me. |
Author: | Diceman [ Wed Nov 02, 2005 9:19 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Candyman, thsi i sthe typical DIY route for FMIC pipes. the main issue is the hoses blowing off. All hard pipes should really have a form of collar to stop the samco slipping off under boost. |
Author: | datajon [ Fri Nov 04, 2005 1:29 am ] |
Post subject: | |
Alloy for race Stainless for road. Alloy cools better. Stainless more durable. Stainless cheaper, easier to fabricate. Alloy for me on the wide body, stainless for the road car. Seen big power with both used. |
Author: | Kelt [ Fri Jan 13, 2006 11:15 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Alloy is a lot lighter than steel. |
Author: | andycaca [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:23 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
just to update: ive gone back to the original plan and started making it in 2.5 inch 316 stainless steel. to this end, i have 3 metres of straight and 8x 90 degree bends rolling around the back yard ![]() |
Author: | Kris [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 10:44 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Good choice on the grade on stainless Andy ![]() I'll be interested to hear how you get on. What are your thoughts on the routing of the pipework? |
Author: | andycaca [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 11:16 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
gonna take a 90 degree bend right out of the throttle body, then drop it down above the gearbox (have to remove the redundant batteyr tray), under the chassis rail and into the FMIC the turbo side, going to clock the turbo and see if datajon can hook me up with a clocked actuator bracket, then it should be a simple elongated u-bend to get under the chassis rail into the fmic |
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