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Project Taurus
http://gt4dc.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2908		 Page 7 of 37
Author:  Sunny [ Sun Aug 30, 2009 4:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi,

Sirius, got it, thanks 8)
i think i know these engine bay :lol:

greetz
Author:  Kris [ Mon Aug 31, 2009 1:09 am ]
Post subject: 
Mud - whereabouts are you measuring the engine water temp? (i.e. where is the probe sited)
Author:  two_OH_five [ Mon Aug 31, 2009 10:20 am ]
Post subject: 
it's measured in the top rad hose Kris
Author:  Muddy Water [ Mon Aug 31, 2009 5:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
Quote:
Mud - whereabouts are you measuring the engine water temp? (i.e. where is the probe sited)
Quote:
it's measured in the top rad hose Kris

Correct Steve - top rad hose.
Oil temp is measured in the sump.
Author:  Diceman [ Tue Sep 01, 2009 10:05 am ]
Post subject: 
I am not sure if it has been mentioned but Nigels water temps are a littel concerning if they were measured during a run/cool down lap.

I suspect that they were either when the car was stationary before bonnet lifted or after turn off of engine when you have no water flow but for natural convection?

With a TRD stat and Koyo Nigels figures seem quite high for a few laps?
Author:  TrackToyFour [ Tue Sep 01, 2009 2:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
I think we've mentioned this before but AFAIK Nigel hasn't yet flushed the cooling system on his engine. I suspect this might improve matters a little although with 300+bhp cooling even with a TRD 'stat and Koyo will still be marginal. When I did the TSS event at Woodbridge I short-shifted to avoid high revs and possible water pump cavitation issues which would cause high coolant temps. As most people know I am re-engineering the cooling system on my track toy to cope with sustained track sessions.
Author:  Sunny [ Tue Sep 01, 2009 2:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi,

i never heared my fans running after a rallycross turn, they started in the drivers-location where you have to drive gentle, and i speak from a curve to curve circuit and low speed + high rev, it also had around 30°C outside last time

to upgrade the cooling system, try to become more air through the radiator package,
you can read these topic complete as i played a lot this year with cooling

greetz
Author:  Muddy Water [ Tue Sep 01, 2009 7:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
Quote:
I suspect that they were either when the car was stationary before bonnet lifted...

Correct :)
Quote:
AFAIK Nigel hasn't yet flushed the cooling system on his engine.

Not yet :oops: ...it's on the to do list :wink:
Quote:
I suspect this might improve matters a little although with 300+bhp cooling even with a TRD 'stat and Koyo will still be marginal

I personally think it is more to do with the close-ratio gearbox.
Everything is running that much faster and thus generating more heat.
Quote:
...more air through the radiator...

This would definitely help.
Currently have a few oil coolers in front which limit air flow.
Will probably look at ducting air towards the rad.
Author:  two_OH_five [ Tue Sep 01, 2009 11:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
Nigel (and everyone else!)

It might be worth dropping the makers of this a line

Bilt Hamber stuff generally has a great rep. IF you could drop this in the cooling system overnight without it eating everything rubber it could be a greak block internal cleaner (short of hot tanking the engine which is *slightly* problematical with the engine in the car :lol: )
Author:  Sunny [ Thu Sep 03, 2009 7:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi,

and the party goes on

the following is on my list

- spal fan mounting
- activating the breathing tank
- coolant change to a 1:1,5 / antifreeze:water with 2% millers extra cool

overview

[img][img]http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/2479/lfterumbau.jpg[/img][/IMG]

i blow out the rest water with my mouth so good as possible, better i'll take a wife with me next time :D :D :D

before

[img][img]http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/4416/lftervorher.jpg[/img][/IMG]

after

[img][img]http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/1081/lfternacher.jpg[/img][/IMG]

you can see the radiator better, air will flow better i think

i will use the OEM connectors on the spal fans, it is very easy, blue wire to blue wire at all fans

tomorrow i wil mount the fans and weld a connector on the stainlesss pipe to make the breathing tank work

greetz
Author:  Kris [ Fri Sep 04, 2009 7:40 am ]
Post subject: 
Great stuff... I toyed with just fitting 1 spal fan when I upgraded the radiator... this would NOT provide enough cooling, 2 fans should be fitted, even to a super thick aluminium Koyo
Author:  Muddy Water [ Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
I already have twin 12" spal fans fitted to my Koyo :wink:
I believe that Mike has twin 11" spal fans fitted to his.
Author:  Sunny [ Fri Sep 04, 2009 3:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi,

i use

- 336mm, 63mm, 2080m³/h -> engine
- 310mm, 52mm, 1630m³/h -> A/C

and now i go to work :)

greetz
Author:  Muddy Water [ Fri Sep 04, 2009 10:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mike has 2 slimline Suction (Puller) Spal fans which are 280mm x 52mm 1500cfm (VA09-AP8/C-54A).
I have 2 slimline Suction (Puller) Spal fans which are 305mm x 52mm 1750cfm (VA10-AP10/C-61A).
Author:  Sunny [ Sat Sep 05, 2009 1:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi,

spal fans with toyota connectors

[img][img]http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/9739/lfter1.jpg[/img][/IMG]

and the breathing tank
[img][img]http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/9366/breathingtank2.jpg[/img][/IMG]

[img][img]http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/7619/breathingtank5.jpg[/img][/IMG]

[img][img]http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/1509/breathingtank4.jpg[/img][/IMG]

i forget to make pictures from the modifyed radiator cap, but i only cut the lower part

i also taped the radiator for more pressure in front of them, a approved solution

[img][img]http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/5162/khlerabgeklebt.jpg[/img][/IMG]

and a close-up
[img][img]http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/5910/breathingtank3.jpg[/img][/IMG]

the breathing tank works nice, i can see the bubbles

it looks like that the spal fans work less then the OEM, a delusion as they do not run so long against OEM

i also changed for a 1:1,5 mixture coolant:water with 2% millers extra cool, should mean that the car need longer to become themp. becouse of more water but i have it after 1km (at 10:00 when it is a bit cold), the only explanation i have is millers but i'am not sure yet

and the last mod i plan for 2009 is to get sparco seats, glad for my back :D
then i can come with my car to the next meeting to visit you all :)

greetz
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