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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 5:47 pm 
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Hi,

pink valves..........i'am a bit scary

i quote a friend:

the color is typically for engines where water gets burned like a swiched off engine with active water injection or a broken block

but possible it is just on the pic

greetz

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 6:19 pm 
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The block is scrap now any way

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 6:48 pm 
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Location: drinking devil fuel
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sheesh

beaten with the unlucky stick then kicked in the conkers with the unlucky boot


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 8:58 pm 
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ooof that's a mess. Sorry to see it has sustained so much damage :-(

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 9:34 am 
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Have you checked fuel % in your old oil?
IMHO it's worth it when these things happen:
it's not the first time that I see these things caused by too much fuel contaminating oil too quickly for a wrong map, or wrong piston to cylinder clearance, or rings not installed correctly (wrong side up).

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 11:02 am 
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TBH i think it was either Clutch was adjusted wrong ( riding clutch ) and was causing constant pressure on thrust bearings. Or original bearings have worn over the years and possibly re installed incorrectly. Either way the thrust washers wore down and were allowed to pop out this then spun mains and in turn took out rods and bigends..

Car had not long been re mapped and afr was fine oil would have had to be like p**s water to cause that in so little miles really..

good article on thrust failures

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Thrust_bear ... lures.html

overloading mentions torque converters but in a manual box its either bad adjustement of clutch or a mega pressure clutch plate..

and one on bearing failure

http://www.kingsnortonhigh.bham.sch.uk/ ... ailure.pdf


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 11:32 am 
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MrDB wrote:
Car had not long been re mapped and afr was fine oil would have had to be like p**s water to cause that in so little miles really..



A friend's car was mapped and lasted 1000 kms before bearings were gone.
After oil analisys, fuel was 30% the engine oil.
AFR were fine on his "commercial" wide band gauge, more over AFR gauge can NOT tell you if rings are sealing correctly.

Oil analisys costs little money, but can tell you A LOT. Imho.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 23, 2011 12:13 pm 
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Agree with what your saying. @ 30% fuel contamination oil would almost be the consistancy of water so your mates car would have eaten bearings etc i suspect thrust washers would still have been fairly intact though...

In this case though thrust washers were the cause of the main damage mains / bigends went because of crank walk... Bad oil would have taken out mains / rods bearings long before the thrust so would have noticed bottom end knock first. Engine was quiet until last minute...

Having said that the engine prior to fitting new rings had terrible ring gap and blow by so damage to thrust could have been caused then by oil contamination. However mains and bigends were checked prior to re assemble and no damage. We didnt look at thrust washers though :(

Crank was moving laterally way before any main / bigend damage. We just didnt associate clutch pressing and stalling with trust washer failure until i did a check on crank pully movement when it dawned on me it might be the case. It literally went bang within a few miles after..

AFR were fine on dyno plot and tallied with in car. Car had perfect compression and actually made more power than ever with only modification of new rings fitted/gapped correctly....


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 9:16 am 
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Location: The Vale, South Wales
Car Model: ST185 CS/RC
Quick question what thrust washers where used? Dorris

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Last edited by Dorris on Sun Sep 25, 2011 4:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 10:03 am 
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im not shore as thay were all fitedfor me the first time the engine was build so dont know if thay where toyota to ACL. ill be fitting ACL this time.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 2:38 pm 
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Standard thrust washers will be fine... just make sure they are around the correct way :)

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 5:02 pm 
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My own personal opinion is I would take the Mr T bearings over the ACL any day. D

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 5:10 pm 
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Hi,

i also would go with MrTs parts, the crank drives of toyota engines are very sensitive

greetz

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 11:41 pm 
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set of new forged rods on there way :) £180 deliver so not to bad, and after Dug poped round to day to have a look at the pistons i can now reuse my set of pistons that that save as bit of money :) and for what you are all say think ill go with Mr T thurst bearings :)

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 6:20 pm 
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now that I have the new work hop built I have been doing some mods to the this plate
this is how the plate looks without he flaps in
Image

here you can see where I have cut out and ports matched the holes
Image
<a href="http://s521.photobucket.com/albums/w332/gt4louis/?action=view&amp;current=2011-10-01165153.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w332/gt4louis/th_2011-10-01165153.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>


this is how it looks finished
Image

next job it to port match the exhaust manifold and polish it up to help with flow and do a bit more to the inlet manifold to as you can see there is still a bit more I can do the it to help flow
Image

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