Great to see it coming together, looking good

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[color=#000080]ST205 WRC 1994
Hybrid turbo
Apexi AVC-R
Apexi Power FC (Not being used ATM)
Apexi Power commander (Not being used ATM)

when is the beast going to be driving then? you got a plan?

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FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

I'm hoping that the next trip up will see the suspension on and the engine all plumbed in. Hopefully driving by the end of the month.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Im going abroad for a few months without an internet signal in the middle of may, I expect it to be going by then!!!

its looking good mike, makes me want to go mental oriental on the car, need to get a carlos sainz/rc daily driver 1st

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FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

Lol

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Isn't that a contradiction in terms?......ducks

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Time for the next update:

Things are really moving along now.

The engine is in the car and the suspension is all bolted up and its finally sitting on its wheels again.



Something that was noticed when fitting the suspension was how much camber is being run on the front struts - even with the car jacked up you can see its running a significant amount - no wonder the previous owner was doing well in the sprint series



The brakes have also been installed and the brake bled - the setup I am using is OEM refurbished capilers, EBC yellowstuff rear pads and TRD fast road front pads, combined with OEM discs that I have had grooves cut in by HighSpec brakes.



TEIN superstreet suspension installed - along with the OEM strut brace and the mounting plates for the CUSCO brace. I'm really happy with how the strut brace caps look, I am considering trying to find some plastic caps for the topmounts so that you don't see the TEIN stuff.



I have picked up from Toyota what I hope to be the last order of parts, all of these were totally unneccesary for the project but have tidied up the engine bay quite a bit - various new hose clips for the power steering and the coolant pipes, new turbo water pipes, etc.



Picture of the new and old clips and pipes etc




I also took the opportunity to replace the clutch slave cylinder with a shiny new one:



After fitting we then bled the clutch - first impressions is that the pedal feel is good - heavier than the unit I had before so possibly similar to the stock feel now.

The alternator and starter motors were then installed, both of these required a bit of modification to install in that the electrical fittings did not match those on the loom, I really didn't want to butcher the loom and fit spade terminals so old units were cannibalised for their connectors to allow the standard wiring to be used.



Next up was to fit the downpipe and the koyo radiator, these went in without any drama, with the fitting of the radiator the engine bay is starting to look really 'complete':




One other job that we had to do was tweak one of the pipes on the outlet of the chargecooler top box due to it interfering with the location of my new water temperature sensor - that's one of those detail things that you only see when finishing the assembly - there was no room for the sensors electrical connector, this was quite an easy fix however.

Lastly when I was up at the garage a couple of weeks ago I was annoyed at how rusty the bonnet latch had got - it also was all gunked up and didn't work very well. I started by degreasing it to get it clean and then put it in a bath of the 'magical' deox c fluid. I must say I am impressed with the results:



I then greased the movable parts and sprayed the part with 'muc-off bike spray' this is a product similar to WD40 but it drys to a non sticky film - I'm hoping this will be quite effective at protecting the part although I will keep an eye on it to make sure its staying corrosion free.

That's it for now - we are really very close now to starting the engine for the first time - hopefully this coming weekend. I must admit I am quite nervous about that but am also really looking forward to getting it back on the road.

Cheers

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Good progress Mike!

Even although Martin has spun the engine up on his patent drill to prime the oil galleries I would crank it again with the EFI fuse pulled to ensure you have oil where it should be. I'm sure you will do this anyway as its SOP. With my track toy I have to use a speed brace on the external oil pump to prime the system. You know its properly primed when you meet resistance and the speed brace tries to 'spring back'

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Now I don't know whether to be glad I wasn't sued for patent infringement
Or Pee Oed that I missed the chance to add a 4th patent to my name


Agree with the sentiment though

Ok next update:

This last weekend just gone we continued getting the car ready:

The altenator snorkel and the turbo heatshield were installed.



Next came time to fit the chargecooler - I felt this was a really big milestone as the engine is looking really finished once that's installed.



I also installed the refurbished bonnet lock and its working a treat having been degunked and properly greased.

Next up came the standard airbox - this is one job I've never done before as the car had a HKS intake on it when I bought it, a little bit of work was needed with some sacrifical bolts to clean the bolt holes out that hadn't been used for 10-11 years.



Next came the airfilter - just a plain simple K&N item.



The lid was then fitted along with the intake pipework and the OEM dumpvalve, I am planning on running my HKS SSQV valve in recirculation mode ultimeately but this is going to need a little bit of thought as the hole in the standard airbox doesn't line up with the angle of the DV pipes and the pipe to the chargecooler.

Next job was to fill with fluids:



We were then ready to start the engine! Alas this was not to be due to issues with the alarm doing its job too well and refusing to allow us to start it (the fob is broken I think) we now know how to get round this so hopefully it will be running very shortly.

At that point the car was moved onto the ramp in the garage to give access to the underside of the car to get the fueltank back out to redo the fuel pump wiring. I had soldered the connections and used some heatshrink but after reading on the web this probably wasn't a good idea as normal heat shrink is not fuel resistant. So the tank was dropped and the wires cut and rejoined using a plastic crimp fitting with a melting adhesive that is designed fore fuel tank use. As a double measure I also fitted some Raychem DR-25 heatshrink over the top which is designed for exposure to fuel.



I then spent some time under the car just taking photo's and replacing the odd bolt here and there for stainless items, I think the underside is looking really good considering the car is 17 years old.



Really impressed with how clean the underside is - going to be further undersealed in a few months time.









I really really wish I had found that Deox C stuff before I started this project - most of the stuff looks ace but the hubs really let the side down:



I found these little plastic bolt caps on ebay - I have fitted them liberally on the underside of the car, no idea if they will stay on or if they will do anything but perhaps they will keep the rust at bay a little longer:



I also came across this product:



Its made by Boeing for use on aircraft and is a bit like WD-40 but dries to a film, I plan on using this on the rust prone areas, bolts, superstrut, damper bodies again to try and keep the rust at bay.

So the car was left at this stage:



The picture really doesn't do it justice as to how clean it looks in the flesh.

The remaining jobs to do are to fit the exhaust, defeat the immbobiliser, do the wheel alignment and then she will be ready to run in.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Another quick update!

The car has done its initial start-up, just 5 seconds or so to show things are working.

Part of the starting problem was due to the powder-coating on the igniter bracket preventing a good earth! Something to think about for those folks who have also have things blasted and powdercoated.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Excellent news! car is looking really good. Will it be run in for the Haynes weekend?

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Don
GT4DC Chairman
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four ST205WRC JDM 269bhp @ 0.9bar
1994 Toyota Celica GT-Four Special GT 590bhp @ 1.8bar
1989 Van Diemen RF88/89 Formula Ford 1600
2008 Nissan Patrol GU 3.0L ZD30DDTi 154bhp

Thanks Don, I'm really chuffed with how its turning out.

Unfortunately it won't be run in for the weekend - I can't get up to Blackburn this week or next so its going to have to wait until around the 10th or so to start running it in properly.

Have to do some work to pay for all of this! So this weekend will be BMW Power! (or lack thereof!)

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

A word of warning re bolt caps

They need to be filled with grease when fitted to work. Otherwise all they do is trap moisture against the thread.

Learned that the hard way with rigging screws on the boat

Good idea Steve, I do have some suitable grease with which to fill them, I was wondering whether they would make them slide off really easily though.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK