I'm just pondering the possibility of retaining the chargecooler but clocking the turbo and adding a small FMIC, maybe the size of a 185 topmount. Might just give the best of both worlds.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

what do you mean chris?

from the turbo down to a FMIC then back up to the chargecooler??

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FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

Yup. Take some initial heat out to help the chargecooler, but without being too visible.

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If at first you don't suck seed, try drier grain.

suppose it depends what the required result of the mod it, I would of considered that a half way house way of doing it. It still wouldnt look particularly oem. Either that or stick with the standard chargecooler

just my 2p

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FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

I reckon you would be better working on some way of reducing the chargecooler fluid temperatures and insulating the gap between top tank and rocker cover than trying to mingle the 2

Martin

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We now have a new website

https://www.mkautorepairsandtuning.uk/

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Mk-Auto-R ... 7894641634

I have a few ideas for reducing the coolant temperature. What I can say is that spray bars onto the CC rad don't work, at least not with any volume of water that's reasonable to carry! Maybe if you had a 20-30 litre tank but then its such a weight penalty you'd be better just turning the boost down a little.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

I don't think it's worth while, it may have some cooling benefits but ultimately you are adding more volume and complication to the system. Ultimately with the effort of clocking the turbo and creating custom pipework you may as well go front mount and save the weight of the chargecooler.

You would still suffer with the same problems the chargecooler already has - I.e. when sat in traffic the chargecooler would still get hot, the small front mount would be getting no airflow so not offering any extra cooling. Would make no difference to heat soak, although it may help the temp to reduce quicker once you start moving again.

If keeping the cc better to fully heat shield the tank and upgrade the chargecooler with a larger rad, and even an external reservoir as well if necessary.

_________________
GT4 no 10 - I must be mad :help:

^^^Click the banner for my Black Treacle project thread ^^^

Now back home and mapped to 531bhp & 411lb/ft - that's enough power for now!

Or you could fit a side feed manifold and then buy an aftermarket cylindrical chargecooler to sit at the side of the engine, which would make a huge difference to heat soak as its no longer anywhere near the manifold and would be easy to heat shield further if required.

This would be fairly straightforward as the car already has the pump and rad in place to run a chargecooler, all your doing is replacing and relocating the tank.

_________________
GT4 no 10 - I must be mad :help:

^^^Click the banner for my Black Treacle project thread ^^^

Now back home and mapped to 531bhp & 411lb/ft - that's enough power for now!

Hi folks,

just a quick note, raise the water amount of the mixture in the chargecooler, alcohol or anti freeze has a lower specific heat and heat carriage against water, thats cheat and effective

i drive 2/3 water and 1/3 anti freeze....same to the cooling system of the engine, no one ever developed a better fluid for cooling purpose as water

greetz

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KEEP COOL UNDER PRESSURE

street legal?.....perhaps in tschibuti

Not so much an update but I've had a few more deliveries

Marcus kindly reminded me that I needed to buy a hose to go between the turbo and the chargecooler. Samco now do a 'classic' range that has a matt black finish:



I also picked up this little treat:



I haven't actually finally decided on an ECU yet however this came up cheap and I know the PFC can do everything I need. If I decide not to use it I will sell it on, these seem to go for good money nowadays so I probably won't lose any money on it.

Finally I had the datalogging system and dash display arrive, I've set it up on the bench and hooked it up to the software so I can play around, its really impressive. The system is from Race Technology (British Firm) and the kit is the DL1 Club Datalogger and their DASH3 display:



I plan on using this at least until Nibbles gets his system to the market.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

that looks like a very informative setup. Does it require any setup or is it plug and play? Did they use a similar setup on "a racecar is born"? Im sure they had some teething problems

What are your intentions regarding the main induction hose from the air filter?? Will samco do car specific hoses in their classic finish without branding? That would be ideal really

marcus

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FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

Hi Marcus,

I'd say that the setup is very much not plug and play, you do need a fair amount of reading the manuals and a knowledge of computers to get it running. It took me quite a while to get the display to give me readings in degC rather than volts! Its highly configurable though which is nice, I'll know alot more once I get it into the car but I am impressed for now.

With regards to the main induction hose I am for now going to use the OEM one as mine is in quite good condition, I would imagine that you would be able to get the samco one in the classic colour as a custom order but its not something they offer off the shelf. There are a few other companies also offering a 'classic' look including SFS. I'll wait until some hoses fail / look like they are failing before looking into it further though. Sometimes the cost just isn't justifiable, the really cheap ebay water hoses will come in at £40 and the samco et al ones at over £100. Brand new OEM ones cost about £30 for the pair! Given that they will last at least 10 years its a sensible choice imo.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

agreed, although I am partial to a little red under the engine bay and when I burst a rad hose last last summer at knockhill, I seen it as a good excuse. The only reason I havent changed my induction hose to a samco jobbie is because of the price of it, seems a tad ridiculous to be honest especially when I dont actually need it.

I do believe that the samco one isnt ribbed like the oem one mind you, cant be bad for airflow. When I do change mine I think a good induction/chargecooler clean will be in order along with an upgraded catch can will be the order of the day. May earn myself 50bhp looking at the state of mine.

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FN2 Civic Type R w/Mugen Parts
Toyota Celica GT4 ST205
Toyota Celica GT4 ST185

So yesterday I made another trip up to visit my car (I'm missing it :sob: )

This time I spent the whole day up at Martin's checking things over and tinkering with bits.

Sorry for the poor picture quality, I forgot the memory car for my camera so had to use my phone.

I started by giving the gearbox a last clean before it was painted, I just went for a silver colour as it looks clean and smart:



Something that had bugged me ever since I got the car is that the cigarette lighter is too prominant and sticks out too far (yes I am weird I know ). So I've replaced it with this:



Looks much better

While I was fiddling with the car, Martin was working on sorting the last bits of the engine, the oil system was sealed, filled and primed using Martin's special tool:






The cambelt was then installed and everything checked to make sure the engine was turning over correctly. To our surprise the engine couldn't be turned over - there was resistance and something stopping it. Turns out after a bit of head scratching that it was being caused by the clutch touching the inside of the bell housing. Now I don't know of anyone else using this clutch (Competition Clutch Stage 2) so I'm not sure if the problem is caused by a design flaw, me using a Fidanza flywheel or it being a GT-Four rather than an MR2.

Anyone know if the MR2 Turbo bell housing is exactly the same as an ST205 one?

Anyway the problem was easily resolved by whizzing a bit of material off the inside of the bell housing, doesn't look pretty but will do the job:



Checking that it all works ok:



I also busied myself with a couple of other things, the standard bonnet stay had always annoyed me, and mine had gone a little rusty, I have always liked the idea of gas struts and lots of cars have these as standard now, so I picked up a kit from eBay, fitting was really easy, no drilling or anything, just replacement of 2 bolts and fitting of a bracket by undoing and replacing a further 2 bolts.





Most of these kits I have seen you have to be really careful with as the gas dampers are so powerful they would hit you in the chin if you wern't careful, the ones I picked are specifically designed for a Celica with an aluminium bonnet (rather than steel) and have a really smooth gentle action.

Lastly I also had arrive a downpipe support bracket, I've been running without one of these for a while, but thought as the exhaust is changing it would be worth fitting.



That's it for now. I'm hopeful by my next visit towards the end of March we will be close to starting the engine.

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GT4DC Events Co-ordinator
1996 ST205 UK

Looking good Mike

_________________
GT4 no 10 - I must be mad :help:

^^^Click the banner for my Black Treacle project thread ^^^

Now back home and mapped to 531bhp & 411lb/ft - that's enough power for now!